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| A very good book |
STARTING
🔶 Priorities for a good start: (a) low density area, (b) clear air, (c) gap to leeward, (d) full speed, (e) on time.
🔶 Before the start, when pointing the boat upwind to get an accurate wind direction reading, make sure the boat comes to a complete stop with the boom idling on centerline. No matter what direction you are facing, a wind reading of a compass direction lower than a previous reading is a shift left, and a wind reading higher is a shift right.
🔶 Crew communication in pre-start maneuvers is critical. Foredecker should be looking ahead for the start line, mid-decker or jib trimmer should be looking under the headsail to leeward for traffic, mainsail trimmer should be looking aft for overtaking traffic. Check this tradecraft topics post on communication for more information about crew communication efficiency.
🔶 On final approach, fight hard for space to leeward to foot off in power mode to get clear of boats to windward. On starboard tack, that's a "gap left." If a port-tack boat approaches to take that space, point right at her to force her to tack early, when you should luff up to open the gap, or encourage her to pass behind you.
🔶 A "scoop" is a hook around to leeward of a boat setting up for a final approach. An advantageous position because rights to luff up creates a gap left.
🔶 Use a blocker on same tack, positioned just ahead and to leeward, to discourage port tack boats from filling your gap left.
🔶 If wind shifts right, "easy to be early". Hang back and don't commit approaching too soon. If wind shifts left, "easy to be late". Stay close to the line and be ready to accelerate.
🔶 "Slingshot" approach from a reach can generate faster than full speed (120%). Jib trimmer must work with helm. Avoid over trimming the jib (to the close-hauled setting) too soon or speed is compromised.
🔶 Example approach speed timing:@ 4 kts - 6.75 ft/sec
@ 5 kts - 8.44 ft/sec
@ 6 kts - 10.1 ft/sec
@ 7 kts - 11.8 ft/sec
UPWIND
🔶 After the starting signal, must sail proper course. But luffing rights on a boat to windward depend on how the overlap was established. If close-hauled at the pin end, proper course may be to sail above close-hauled to clear the pin.
🔶 Priorities for sailing the leg: (a) Sail closest tack to the mark, (b) sail in good wind, (c) where is the fleet? Watch competitors behind on initial hip (closest), middle hip, top hip (furthest).
🔶 "Leverage" is the lateral separation between your boat and another, perpendicular to the mark. Use the 90/10/25 heuristic to gauge the amount of gain or loss you can expect based on leverage: if tacking through 90 deg, for a 10 deg wind shift, expect gain/loss of 25% of the leverage distance. So, 10 boat lengths apart realizes a gain/loss of 2.5 boat lengths. Pretty significant not to miss this.
🔶 Boats ahead to left and right give clues about wind. Look for heel angle and position of crew on the rail or not.
🔶 When changing course from off the wind to close-hauled, hike hard pre-emptively to avoid inducing sudden excess heel. Although there is a slight waterline length speed advantage, heel is mostly just leeway.
🔶 When luffing up head to wind for tactical advantage, be sure to release the jib sheet to avoid backwinding the headsail and swinging the bow through the wind. Helm won't be able to regain steering.
🔶 In light air, priority is pressure over wind shifts. Sail in wind to get to more wind. Get the bow into the wind line, determine the direction and pressure, then decide whether to tack. In moderate and stronger air, priority is shifts over pressure. True upwind and especially downwind.
🔶 In heavy air, to control heel or to reduce speed, let boom vang off, allowing boom to rise and twist the main.
DOWNWIND
🔶 Record a reference heading when sailing downwind on starboard tack - a comparison point for seeing lifts or headers and deciding when to gybe. Compass heading numbers that increase indicate lift and a cause to gybe.
🔶 Sailing downwind, steer to AWA instead of a fixed heading. Steer up in the lulls and soak down in the puffs. Spinnaker trimmer must call pressure on sheet and work together with helm. Assign a wind caller who should be looking aft upwind for signs of breeze.
🔶 Downwind when approaching the leeward mark, position the boat to be inside at the mark for mark-room in the zone. If you find yourself outside other boats rounding the mark, consider an early douse and/or slow down to do a tactical rounding and sail a higher course at the mark, on top of boats that round wide. Provides clear air and option to tack out.
MISCELLANEOUS
🔶 Key skills for tactician - patience, observation, risk assessment, mental approach to consistency. Consistent good finishes wins over taking desperately extreme risks, which pay off only rarely and is never a sustainable strategy.
🔶 One way to build a "current stick": short batten with sealed water bottles taped to each end, partially filled with sand. Throw it overboard to observe current. Retrieve it before someone else does. Don't underestimate benefit of freaking out competitors when they see what you're doing!
🔶 Some good practice drills:
(a) To time starts accurately, set up downwind and approach a mark from standstill in 1 minute.
(b) To reduce drag, steer only with sails, helm held on centerline.
(c) To judge the zone, mark out 3 boatlengths on pavement and ask crew for estimates.
🔶 Some memorable sailing terms and quotes from Andrew:
"Pinch fest" in a high-density zone.
"Rafting up" with the crowd at the boat end.
"Gravy train" - boats grouped on starboard tack layline all suffering in combined disturbed air.
"Sail in wind to get to more wind."
"Thin kill" - luff up slowly, retaining maneuverability and speed.
"There are no brakes on this thing."
"Tactical mind doesn't like to lose."
"Don't bite low-hanging fruit" - justify tacks carefully.
"Take the road" - just sail the rhumbline.
"Hip management" - watch who is behind.
"Sanity scan please" - look for more breeze by checking water, other boats, clouds, signs.
"Flex a boatspeed muscle" - focus on boatspeed advantage.

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