Another sailing tradecraft topic for the Volant crew and specific to the boat's rig configuration is: sail changes. For prerequisite background, see a description of Volant's current sail inventory in this recent Tradecraft topics: Sails post, along with this draft sails cross-over chart that depicts sail selection according true wind speed, true wind angle, and apparent wind angle.
WHEN & WHY
- Sail changes are generally performed when we are nearing or out of the apparent wind speed range of a sail according to its construction specifications. For spinnaker changes, the apparent wind angle sailed is significant as well as apparent wind speed. The sails cross-over chart diagrams the application of all the racing sails for wind/angle ranges. We can assume that there is some overlap, though not depicted.
- Decision factors for a sail change apply, for example: wind forecast, how far away is a turning mark, sea state, strength of wind gusts, number of crew aboard, and position against competitors. We may be able to hang on longer by shifting gears among pinching/pointing/pressing upwind, or adjusting sailing angles downwind.
- Clearly, the best time to change headsails is during a downwind leg, and to change spinnakers, during an upwind leg.
HEADSAILS
- On Volant, we cannot peel headsails because of the jib furling car. Rating regulations do not allow disconnecting the furler drum and just using the twin headstay foils (as everyone used to do in the past on race day). Consequently, only one jib halyard is installed.
- To change headsails, we need to get the other sail staged, attach a second set of jib sheets, bring the current sail down, disconnect old and reconnect new head to halyard, hoist it in the headstay foil, and disconnect old and reconnect new tack on the way up.
- There is some advantage to accomplishing a headsail change during a (slow) tack because the unloaded sail could come down easier onto the deck.
- After staging the new headsail, we should be able to perform this operation within 1-2 minutes. Of course, there is some cost to this in terms of boatspeed loss while sailing bareheaded.
- Raising the jib with the kite flying in readiness for a douse, we can unroll the jib from the furler and power it up within about 10 seconds. That's faster than hauling a halyard to hoist, so there is more flexibility on timing.
- The rig configuration allows us to gybe the jib while the kite is flying, necessary for a Mexican douse, for example. This is something a symmetrical spinnaker boat can do only by first disconnecting and stowing the spinnaker pole.
CODE 0
- Note that for 2025, I filed for MWPHRF and ORC certificates, and for 2026, I filed for the MWPHRF certificate, without declaring the Code 0 specialty sail, to avoid the penalty. So, the Code 0 will not be aboard.
- If it is aboard, we can add the Code 0 to the sail plan on either tack with any headsail currently flying. We can elect to keep up or replace the jib, though this is not likely to have any boatspeed benefit.
- The Code 0 is designed to be hoisted to masthead with the green spinnaker halyard, labeled "Spin 1".
- Presently, Volant has two tacklines rigged, so the Code 0 can be peeled with a spinnaker. This would work best if the spinnaker is intended for the fractional hoist with red spinnaker halyard, labeled "Spin 2".
SPINNAKERS
- When using a spinnaker, we have an option to also keep the jib up or raise another one. The #3 or #2.5 jib could benefit boatspeed in some conditions. The #2 or #1 genoa would probably negatively affect the spinnaker too much to be practical.
- We can peel spinnakers, but with some limitations. Presently, there are 2 tack lines rigged. The A2, A3, and A4 are designed for masthead hoist using the green spinnaker halyard marked "Spin 1". The A1 and A5 are designed for fractional hoist using the red spinnaker halyard marked "Spin 2". Spinnakers can best be peeled with another designed for the other, lazy halyard hoist. A little complicated, eh?
- A spinnaker can be peeled most easily and cleanly by hoisting the new kite to the inside of the flying kite, then gybing, then dousing the old kite on the inside of the active kite.
- Dousing the spinnaker at the leeward mark can be performed efficiently within 1 to 2 boatlengths if we take down with Mexican. It's a significant tactical advantage approaching on starboard tack and dousing so close, compared to conservative port tack approach and leeward douse farther out, needing more time, longer duration of weight on the bow, and more extensive lines cleanup, spinnaker packing, and reconfiguration of the spinnaker gear. The middle preference is a windward douse, where the spinnaker and gear can be brought to the port side, ready for a re-hoist.
- Refer to the crew positions - transitions technique document I authored to see more information about spinnaker maneuvers.
STAYSAIL
- The staysail can be rigged and raised while any asymmetrical spinnaker is flying. It tacks to a strong point on centerline just aft of the anchor locker. The staysail can even be added to a configuration of A sail plus headsail.
- The staysail can be gybed also, along with a spinnaker. It is probably easiest to gybe the spinnaker first, ignoring the staysail until the kite is re-filled and drawing.
MAINSAIL
- Regulations usually permit only one mainsail, so we can reef it or drop it, but not change it.
GALE SAIL
- The gale sail uses strops on the luff, designed to be hoisted over a furled headsail, helping keep it from deploying accidentally should the furling line fail. Or, it can be hoisted on the naked headstay foil.[Updated June 10, 2026]
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